The vast majority of existing literature considers the basic diet of an African Pygmy Hedgehog to be a good quality dry cat food (e.g. Whiskas, Iams) which is high in protein and also has the advantage of allowing the hedgehogs to exercise their teeth thus preventing dental problems.

It is advisable to offer a varied diet as much a possible.  The main diet can therefore be supplemented with the following items:-

1. Canned  -  Cat Food (Meat based not fish)
2. Cooked Chicken, Mince or Lamb
3. Boiled or Scrambled Egg
4. Cottage Cheese

(All of my hoglets have been offered the above items in order to prevent “fussy” eaters).

In addition, live foods are also warmly welcomed by most hedgehogs which include:-

Crickets and Meal Worms – obtainable from Simply Exotics

It is important to highlight that these foods should only be offered as a treat, perhaps once or twice per week as they are high in fats.  Fruits and vegetables may also be offered in the form of apple, tomato, peas, mashed potato and broccoli.  However, many hedgehogs generally tend to show little interest in such foods.  A way round this problem is to combine food items e.g. a little canned cat food together with a little cooked chicken and vegetables.  This ensures that the hedgehogs are consuming healthy foods which also provide a valuable source of vitamins.

African Pygmy Hedgehogs are solitary animals in nature and only meet up together in order to mate and so it is advisable to house them separately.  However, a small number of hedgehog keepers have claimed to keep a small number of females together without experiencing any problems providing ample space is provided.  Keeping more than one male together in the same cage will almost certainly lead to fighting.

The cage should be placed away from drafts and direct sunlight to avoid stressing the hedgehog.  Varying types of caging is used by many hedgehog keepers and breeders.  The most common of these are indoor cages designed for guinea pigs or rabbits (e.g. Ferplast Duna and Zoozone Cages)

I would recommend a layer of wood shaving to cover the bottom of the cage.  Shredded paper can also be used.  It is important here to highlight the dangers of using straw as bedding.  Problems with using straw have frequently been experienced by other hedgehog keepers, hence why I have never used it.  Straw and some types of hay can easily become wound around the legs of a hedgehog and may cut off the blood supply to the legs if action is not promptly taken.

It is important to provide a secure hiding place for your hoglet to sleep in.  This may be in the form of a wooden next box or a hut, a wooden log, cardboard tubes and shoe boxes, plastic igloos or bread bins.

Toys are warmly welcomed by hedgehogs.  The best investment would be a large exercise wheel (I use a 12” wheel used for ferrets).  Wheels provide an important source of exercise for our hedgehog, and help to prevent boredom and health problems such as fatty liver and obesity.  However, do ensure that the wheels are solid as many hedgehogs can catch their feet in the bars of those without a solid base.  Such wheels can be purchased from Simply Exotics.  In addition to exercise wheels hedgehogs also like tubes and balls which they can push around their cage with their noses.  Small toys available for cats or ferrets containing bells are especially favourable for hedgehogs.  African Pygmy Hedgehogs are adventurous in nature and also enjoy exploring tunnels on any kind whether they are plastic or cardboard.  I usually place small amounts of food around the cage in the evenings (in tunnels etc) to provide some stimulation for the hedgehogs and keep them occupied.

African Pygmy Hedgehogs are best kept at around 70-75 degrees (that of a comfortably heated house).  If the temperature is significantly lower than this, hedgehogs will attempt to hibernate (something that should not be allowed as it can prove to be fatal for the hedgehog).  During the colder months or if all round heating is a problem, small heat pads can be placed underneath the sleeping quarters of the cage.

I clean my hedgehogs out thoroughly once per week.  In between such times, any heavily soiled areas can be scooped out.  I currently use washing up liquid for general cleaning and a non-scented disinfectant for heavily soiled areas.  Please note that any cleaning products with a heavy smell can upset the hedgehogs.

The journey home combined with a change in environment can be a stressful time for your hedgehog.  I have provided you with some of your hoglets regular food and bedding in order to try and keep the stress levels to a minimum.  Even with such measures in place it is highly likely that your hoglet will be very shy or even grumpy, and may even go off its food for the first few days (this is to be expected).  It is probably best to avoid handling him/her for a least a day or two to give the hoglet time to adjust to the new environment.

In addition, your hoglet is around the age to start quilling which can unfortunately sometimes make them a little irritable.  Baby hedgehogs will shed their baby “spikes” which are replaced by adults ones around 8/12 weeks of age.  You may notice your hoglet scratching a little, as it can be quite itchy for them (don’t worry – this is a natural process).

It may take a couple of weeks before your hoglet has settled in properly, and your patience is required (however, it is worth the wail).  It is important to continue handling them during this period – even if they may seem unwilling.  This is best done in a quiet environment in the early evening (when your hedgehog begins to wake up).

Hedgehogs do not liked to be petted but will be happy to sit on the palm of your hand or walk form hand to hand like smaller rodents.  It is probably best to handle them initially for short periods of time (5/10 minutes), which can gradually be increased as your hoglet begins to relax in your presence.

I hope that you enjoy your hoglet and that this information will help you as you embark on your own adventure with your African Pygmy Hedgehog